Coche-Dury, First Growth Clarets and Zind Humbrecht

Meursault Les Rougeots 2004 (Coche-Dury) *****

Mid-straw in colour; lovely, taut minerally aromas, subdued smoky new oak with much more ti give on the nose; fine streak of acidity, very fresh, almost steely but with plenty of underlying richness, sublime length. Outstanding. Better still in 10 years. 19

Chateau Latour 1988 ****

Deep centre, purple rim, still youthful in appearance; very fine, open, ripe and scented: damsons, plums. Cedary and a ltouch of liquorice; rich, concentrated, firm, slightly green tannins, sweet plummy fruit, savoury, still fresh, elegant, long and linear. 18

Chateau Latour 1979 ** / ***

Still deep, surprisingly so; slightly damp  vegetal quality on the nose, lard and chip fat, drying out with a cedary character underlying; better on the palate, firm if dry fruit, still just about holding together, dry tannins, verging on lean but not unpleasnt to drink, some grce and elegance on the finish. Drink soon.  14.5

Chateau Margaux 1972

This is only the second time in my life that I have drunk first growth claret from the dismal 1972 vintage: pale colour, browing rim; hollow, slightly musty (but not corky), damp raspberries, weedy and growing thinner in the glass, just a vestige of fruit; very light and acidic, thin, dried out but still with a hint of past elegance. Short. Abrupt.  10

Clos Windsbuhl, Gewurtztaminer 2005 Vendage Tardive (Zind-Humbrecht) ****

 Pale; fresh yet restrained, very pure, apricots and crushed rose petals, still with much more to give; very fresh and zsety on the palate, lovely poise, spicy tropical flavours, well defined, great purity. Needs another 5 years plus.   18