Two Mature Ports from the Fladgate Partnership

These two wines were served at the end of a lunch at Bucks in London to mark the launch of the Fladgate 2024 Vintage Ports.

Taylor 2003 ****/*****

From a hot vintage in the Douro (and not a favourite of mine, though much liked by winemaker David Guimareans): still deep in hue just starting to show its age on the rim; open and exotic, eucalypt and esteva (gum cistus) on the nose, really evocative of warm days in the Douro; similarly exotic and rather luscious on the palate, minty-medicinal ripeness with and exotic marmalade and spicy chutney character, well-supported by firm tannins and an expansive finish. Really rather good, perhaps enough to turn me into a fan of 2003. Can be drunk with real pleasure now, this has many, many years ahead of it. 18.5 ‍

Fonseca 1994 ****

One of ‘two perfect Ports’ on the cover of the Wine Spectator at the time of declaration in 1996: still deep, almost opaque and only just browning on the rim; a bit demure and leathery on the nose (second bottle seemed cleaner), ripe minty fruit underlying; sweet succulent and minty on the palate with good definition, firm tannic super-structure and a long opulent finish. Apart from the slight rustic character of one of the bottles, this still shows all the hallmarks that were there form the outset of this fine, landmark vintage. 18