2024 Vintage Ports from the Symington Family

I was very privileged to have a preview of the nine 2024 Vintage Ports declared by the Symington family in mid-March, a month or so before the wines were officially declared. These notes were written then and are being published as soon as the vintage declaration has become official.

It is easy to forget that the last generally declared Port vintage was 2017. Although there have been some rather good individual declarations since then (Warre’s 2020 Vinhas Velhas springs immediately to mind), this is the longest period since 1934 – 1945 without a general declaration. Charles Symington who is responsible for all the wines below, summed up the 2024s as ‘a classic, old-style year’. There was certainly nothing extreme about the growing season apart perhaps from the previous wet winter which kept the soils at field capacity from November until March. This set things up for the spring/summer ahead which began with a warm, dry April/May with budburst, flowering and the ‘pintor’ (veraison) all falling at about average times. July was hot but without the extremes of previous years and there was a spike of heat in August, but it didn’t last. From 15th August onwards temperatures were in the low 30s with low night time minimums until the end of vintage. Picking started with the Sousão grape on 4th September with vintage properly starting on 11th. There was a small amount of rainfall at the end of September but otherwise conditions were perfect all the way through to the end of vintage in October. Yields were around average and wines were balanced with baumés around 13-14 degrees all the way through.

It is worth commenting on how 2024 differs from previous declarations from a Symington perspective. With over 1,000ha of vineyard under their ownership, all the wines are made from their own fruit meaning that Charles Symington is in full control. Since Charles Symington started out in 1995 when the family had just 250 ha, he highlights ‘the big improvement in viticulture’ adding that ‘these wines are made to be in balance from the first day.’ This means that they can be enjoyed much earlier than in the past despite having the same longevity in bottle. ‘Concentration and balance are equally important’ with grapes like Alicante Bouschet and Sousão important in this regard, giving acidity and tannin to the blend (for example Dow’s 2024 has 10% Alicante Bouschet). Charles Symington goes on to say that, as far as they are concerned, Alicante has effectively replaced Tinta Barroca which is a variety that has been a victim of climate change. Alicante is the new ‘safety grape, which gives tremendous acidity and smooth ripe tannins. Sousão [long part of Noval’s legendary Nacional Port] ripens early and gives better aromas than Alicante.’ All the wines are made in lagar, either foot trodden in the case of Quinta do Vesúvio or in the robotic larages developed by the Symington family over the past 25 years.

The following wines are presented in the order that they were tasted in the quiet, calm of Berry Bros. & Rudd in St James’s, London. All the wines are cask samples with one or two final blends having only recently been adjusted, prior to official declaration:

Warre 2024 ****/*****

A blend of 38% Touriga Franca, 34% Vinha Velha (old, interplanted vines), 17% Touriga Nacional and 11% Sousão from Quinta da Cavadinha, neighbouring Netas and Quinta do Bom Retiro: lovely inky crimson colour; dense, gorgeous but still sullen and withdrawn on the nose. It smells fleshy (i.e. ripe and complete) and it tastes similarly rich and broad with firm, spicy-peppery tannins and a long, linear finish. This is not big but it is supremely elegant and graceful with great purity. 4,280 cases in total. 18.5

Dow 2024 *****

From Quinta do Bomfim and Quinta da Sra. da Ribeira in the Douro Superior, a blend of 40% Touriga Franca, 35% Touriga Nacional, 15% Vinha Velha and 10% Alicante Bouschet: if anything, deeper in colour than Warre above; gloriously ripe on the nose and expressive already with a nicely lifted touch of hedgerow fruit giving off a lovely perfume; suave and smooth initially, especially for Dow, with peppery tannic grip rising in the mouth, long and linear, tight knit and dry in style as befits Dow (3.4 baumé) but in no way overpowering on the finish with beautiful definition. Certain to be a classic. 5,535 cases. 19

Graham 2024 *****

A blend from all the Graham quintas: Malvedos and Tua with Vila Velha and Vale de Malhadas, the latter in the Douro Superior, 55% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca, 9% Vinha Velha and 6% Sousão: Characteristically deep and inky in colour, subdued on the nose with just a touch of heat showing through, dusty earth with mint and eucalyptus; similarly dusty, ripe and fleshy on the palate with breadth and sweetness, firm but broad ripe tannins piling up mid-palate leading to a long structured, spicy finish, again well-defined and magnificent overall. 5935 cases. 19.5

Graham’s, The Stone Terraces *****

The 6th vintage of this wine from east, west and north-facing terraces at the heart of this predominantly south-facing estate, a blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Alicante Bouschet and Sousão, co-fermented in lagar. Again deep with a rather wonderfully exotic, tropical fruit ripeness evident on the nose, a hint of chutney, fragrant, ripe but in no way jammy; sweet and succulent initially on the palate with firm, ripe fine grained but still gritty tannins rising in the mouth to a ‘wow’ of a finish, a real peacock’s tail which expands in the mouth. Brilliant and beautiful. Just 520 cases. 20

Quinta do Roriz ****

The third vintage from this estate which is responsible for producing Chryseia Douro wine, just 360 cases from Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Sousão: deep in hue with open, rich cassis-like aromas with lovely approachable, lithe spicy fruit combining a green edge with a touch of liquorice too and a grippy finish. Lovely if a little simpler and shorter than its peers. 17

Smith Woodhouse 2024 ***/****?

Based on Quinta da Madelena in the Rio Torto, a blend of 40% Touriga Franca, 30% Touriga Nacional with 30% Vinha Velha: again with a good deep inky colour; rich but still slightly spirity and disjointed on the nose (this was the last wine here to be adjusted, so this can be forgiven); lovely plush fruit on the palate, polished yet firm and well defined, some spirity burn on the finish which still seems a bit raw but this is just a phase. 16.5+? ‍ ‍

Cockburn 2024 ****

A blend from Quinta dos Canais and Vale Coelho, both in the Douro Superior, 63% Touriga Nacional, 24% Touriga Franca, 9% Alicante Bouschet and 4% Sousão: characteristically deep in colour like all these wines; open and gentle on the nose with a pronounced floral character (orange blossom); similarly suave and gentle initially on the palate, mouth-filling and very flattering in style, some dark chocolate concentration with tannins rising to a lovely rich, complete, firm finish. 2,980 cases. 18

Quinta do Vesúvio 2024 ****/*****

Just 1,510 cases representing 4% of the total production of this magnificent estate on the south side of the River Douro in the Douro Superior, 47% Touriga Franca (planted in the 1970s), 30% Touriga Nacional, 13% Alicante Bouschet, 10% Sousão: very deep inky crimson hue; restrained but well defined on the nose, lovely pure berry fruit with a nice green edge; this freshness and purity of fruit is evident on the palate too with spicy tannins rising in the mouth, lovely definition and a finish that has perfect poise despite being the sweetest of all the wines at 4.2 baumé. 18.5

Capela da Quinta do Vesúvio 2024 *****

The 6th vintage declaration blending Vinha Velha, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca Alicante Bouschet and Sousão from the heart of the estate, just 430 cases: inky and dense with tight knit yet complex aromas with a floral character and a hint of lavender; immediately rich and dense in style, dark chocolate concentration with big, bold ripe tannins that rise and explode in the mouth. All there, mighty yet refined with a lovely fine-grained finish. At 3.6 baumé, made to a drier style than Quinta do Vesúvio. 19.5