There is a saying in the Port trade that whereas ‘vintage Port is made in the vineyard, tawny is made in the tasting room’. This tasting led by Paul and Johnny Symington marks a subtle change in direction for Graham’s as a producer of tawny Port. The change is in the tasting room where Charles Symington is now in charge. There is no longer any mileage in the rather patronising categorisation of British houses as vintage Port shippers and the Portuguese houses as tawny shippers. Forward thinking shippers of any nationality have to be capable of both.