Single Quinta Vintage Ports from the Noughties (Part II)

Fonseca, Quinta do Panascal 2005 ****

Deep, youthful colour; big, mint and cherry fruit on the nose, ripe and heady, very expressive in a ripe sort of way; hugely sweet, ripe cherry-berry fruit, powerful tannins, a bit disjointed, still needs time to come together. Sweet cherry fruit finish.  17 

Croft, Quinta da Roeda 2005 ****

Very deep but not quite as youthful in colour as above; surprisingly closed, underlying floral perfume; lovely purity of fruit, still very young and a touch raw, powerful tannins, needs time to meld but will be very impressive, fruit comes back on the finish. Very impressive. 18   

Silval 2005 *** / ****

Very dark, verging on black, opaque; closed, dense and a bit lumpy a this stage, more to give; rich, dense and very powerful, bitter chocolate intensity with the fruit coming out on the finish. Still slightly raw and coarse.  16.5

Taylor’s Quinta de Vargellas 2005  *** / **** +?

Deep and youthful; either a touch or cork on the nose or just at a funny stage in its development, not giving much away; big and powerful, massive tannic structure needing time to soften, a bit angular and needing time to come together. Reserve judgement.  16.5 +?

Fonseca Guimaraens 2005 ****

Deep colour; totally closed on the nose; big, foursquare, solid tannins, very ripe and powerful but not showing much fruit at the moment. Needs time to come together but should develop well over the medium-to-long term. 18

Taylor’s Quinta de Terra Feita  2005 ****

Deep colour; again closed, a bit spirit and disjointed; big, rich and powerful, once again in a solid foursquare style, powerful gripping tannins leading to a ripe, foursquare  finish.  17.5  

Warre, Quinta da Cavadinha 2006 *** / ****

Very deep, dark, youthful colour;  still raw on the nose yet showing refinement, quit a big, powerful wine, dusty tannins, solid and dense, especially for Cavadinha.   16.5

Quinta do Vesúvio 2006 ****

Even deeper and darker; ripe, suave, dense with a touch of tar on the nose but integrating well; rich, dense and powerful, tight-knit wine, tar and dark chocolate at the core. Very powerful and impressive if still a bit raw around the edges. 18

Cockburn, Quinta dos Canais 2006

The first Cockburn vintage under Symington tutelage:  deep, dark and totally closed, still a bit lumpen and disjointed on the nose; big, powerful and dense, lovely ripe berry fruit with some peppery tannins and attractive underlying berry fruit going right the way through to the finish.  

Dow, Quinta Senhora da Ribeira 2006 ****

Again, deep and youthful; raw on the nose, tar and spice, big and powerful with  massive, broad spicy tannins, finishes with a flourish. Heat of the vintage evident. Needs time to knit together.  17.5

Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos 2006 ****

 Deep and dark; strange nose, a touch musky, going through an odd phase but tastes very good, ripe broad, minty frui, big spikey tannins with a raw tannic finish.  17

Cockburn, Quinta dos Canais 2007 **** 

Very good colour; closed but dense and suave with lovely pure underlying fruit; firm, tight knit tannins, lovely balance and poise, quite big for a 2007 but with the streak of acidity and purity that characterisies the vintage. 72% Touriga Nacional.  18

Dow, Quinta Senhora da Ribeira 2008  ****

Deep, ripe, integrated and suave, dense fruit, big ripe, quite chewy and raw but coming together, crushed berry fruit, lovely ripe, sweet fruit lingering on the finish.   17

Quinta do Noval 2008 ***** 

Deep and dense; very expressive on the nose, packed with pure, fresh-picked  berry fruit; rich and intense, fine grained tannins and pure berry fruit, there is a real wow factor here, long and fine. Good all round.    19

Graham, Quinta dos Malvedos 2008 ****

 Deep, dense and intense with big opulent fruit and powerful tannins, a big wine, very fine and will be very good indeed, some lovely pure berry fruit all the awy on to the finish. 18

Fonseca Guimaraens 2008 ****

Very deep and opaque; sullen and not very attractive on the nose at this stage, a touch green and stalky, minty fruit underlying; foursquare tannins, big and impressive with a tannic peacock’s tail on the finish, covering the fruit. Multi-layed and very good.  18

Taylor, Quinta de Terra Feita 2008 **** / *****

Dark and dense, closed, not giving much away on the nose; very full rich and fine, broad and fleshy with dark chocolate concentration and intensity. Lovely. Complete. 18.5  

Quinta do Vesúvio 2008 **** / *****

Deep, dark with a lovely young vintage Port nose, still a bit raw but with plenty of ripe, berry fruit underlying, dark chocolate intensity, lovely ripeness, broad tannins with pure fruit underlying, very, very impressive. Finishes with a flourish. 18.5

Cockburn, Quinta dos Canais 2008 ****

Dense, impressive, quite suave, full and fleshy, dense tannins, bitter-sweet fruit at its core  with a warm, ripe finish. 80% Touriga Nacional although it doesn't really show at this stage.  17.5

Fonseca, Quinta do Panascal 2008 ****

Black, opaque wine; totally closed on the nose; rich and fleshy, another big wine, broad, ripe tannins with a massive finish. Very, very good.  18

Taylor, Quinta de Vargellas 2008 ****

Very deep colour; smells odd, very spirity, not yet joined together, still very raw, massively rich and powerful, a big strapping wine, still needing time to come together. Reserve judgement.  17 + 

Croft, Quinta da Roeda 2008 ****

Deep colour; ripe opulent, quite expressive, floral on the nose, rich and plummy, supported by bold, ripe tannins right the way through to the finish. Very impressive.  18.  

Warre 2009 **** / *****

Not a single quinta but an outright declaration of just 500 cases: deep and dense, closed but integrated, lovely tight-knit bitter-sweet fruit, big and powerful with berry fruit showing through. This wine has come together very well without showing the heat of the vintage.  18.5

Taylor’s Vargellas Vinha Velha 2009  **** +?

Not quite so deep in colour; closed, spirit still showing, lovely texture, fine, dense, fine grained tannins, quite broad and rich in style for Vargellas VV with lovely pure fruit on the finsh.  18 +?   

Cockburn Quinta dos Canais 2009 ****

Deep, ripe if raw fruit, very perfumed (Touriga Nacional), full and fleshy, still raw and spirity but with lovely ripe fruit underlying. Big and bold. Top notch single quinta. 18 

Scoring

19 - 20 An outstanding wine (*****)

17 – 18 An excellent wine in its class, highly recommended (****)

15 - 16 A good wine, with much to recommend it (***)

13 - 14 An enjoyable but simple, straightforward wine (**)

10 – 12 A very ordinary wine without faults but with no great merit (*)

8 - 10 Disagreeable (no stars)

Below 8 Faulty