The Purity of Brut Nature

Pol Roger Pure n/v ****

Brut Nature Champagne with zero dosage is very fashionable at the moment and was recently the subject of an extensive tasting in The World of Fine Wine magazine. Without any dosage to offset the naturally high acidity brut nature can taste skinny, one dimensional and very austere. But made from good quality, well-ripened fruit these wines can be supremely pure and refined. Pol Roger have named their brut nature 'Pure' and it is completely different to their 'White Foil', my usual house Champagne.  The Pol Roger Pure wine is steely,  slim (rather than skinny) with great verve and  finesse and, yes, beautifully pure. It emerged as one of the best wines in the World of Fine Wine tasting but I think it is better in the better in the heat of summer than a freezing Derbyshire winter evening when a slightly fuller more mature style is called for. A question mark hangs over how these wines develop in bottle so I will try and keep at least one bottle back for the future.   17.5  

Scoring

19 - 20 An outstanding wine (*****)

17 – 18 An excellent wine in its class, highly recommended (****)

15 - 16 A good wine, with much to recommend it (***)

13 - 14 An enjoyable but simple, straightforward wine (**)

10 – 12 A very ordinary wine without faults but with no great merit (*)

8 - 10 Disagreeable (no stars)

Below 8 Faulty