Malvasia 1897 (‘of Zino’)

This was my Christmas bottle of Madeira in 2020, from an unknown shipper but labelled ‘of Zino, Caves do Torreão’. Adegas do Torreão were partidistas who supplied other shippers and were taken over by Pereira d’Oliveira in 2001. The ‘of  Zino’ refers to the Zino family who are a respected family on the island. There is no knowing when this wine was bottled but it was certainly in good condition when I uncorked it on Christmas Eve 2020. I am still sipping at it!    

Malvasia 1897

A lovely mid-mahogany hue with a golden-green rim; gloriously lifted and fragrant on the nose with a malt and toffeed richness and a hint of Lebanese spice underlying; fresh and delicate on the palate,filigree acidity over sweet crystalised fruit with a hint of toffee apple on a slighted singed finish. As near to perfect as a Malvasia of this generation can be! 19.5            

Scoring

19 - 20 An outstanding wine (*****)

17 – 18 An excellent wine in its class, highly recommended (****)

15 - 16 A good wine, with much to recommend it (***)

13 - 14 An enjoyable but simple, straightforward wine (**)

10 – 12 A very ordinary wine without faults but with no great merit (*)

8 - 10 Disagreeable (no stars)

Below 8 Faulty