A Fine Madeira from Lomelino

Lomelino Malvazia 1906 ****/*****

I have always had a soft spot for Lomelino, a house that became subsumed into the Madeira Wine Company in 1934. This is a bottle from my own cellar, purchased some years ago from Patrick Grubb. It didn't disappoint: deep red-tinged mahogany; wonderfully lifted and very expressive on the nose, rich, intense and slightly singed; similarly expressive on the palate, liquorous richness offset by stark acidity and a long rapier-like finish. Not that sweet for a Malvazia. 18.5     

Scoring

19 - 20 An outstanding wine (*****)

17 – 18 An excellent wine in its class, highly recommended (****)

15 - 16 A good wine, with much to recommend it (***)

13 - 14 An enjoyable but simple, straightforward wine (**)

10 – 12 A very ordinary wine without faults but with no great merit (*)

8 - 10 Disagreeable (no stars)

Below 8 Faulty