I always marvel at Patrick Grubb’s Madeira tastings for two reasons. Firstly they take place at Armoury House, with its historic rugby and cricket field besieged by the gawping modern office blocks of the City of London. Secondly, every year Patrick Grubb generously uncorks bottled history. There are usually one or two mysterious wines, often a single and almost certainly the last bottle in existence. This year was no exception with a bottle named Madeira Velhissimo MFV (the initials are probably those a member of the Madeiran Vasconcelos family).