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Colares 2005, Manuel José Colares, Fundação Oriente *** / ****

This is a highly unusual wine which I was delighted to see had made its way onto the Wine Society’s most recent fine wine list. Colares, on the coast north-west of Lisbon, is a place for incurable wine romantics (like myself). The wines are grown in the sand dunes close to the cliff tops on this wild and frequently wind-swept coast. The sand resists phylloxera so the vines are still planted on their own roots rather than being grafted on to American root stock. The region’s principal red grape variety, Ramisco, is also unique producing fine, fragrant wines with a fresh raspberry character when give the opportunity to perform. The problem is that over the past few decades, wine- making has been monopolised by the antiquated local co-operative and the wines have generally been rasping, astringent and fruitless. This wine is the result of a brave investment in the 1980s by the now defunct Carvalho Ribeiro & Ferriera. Sold on by Cockburn in 1999, it was acquired by a charitable foundation the Fundação Oriente who took three years to replant 9 hectares of vineyard. This now accounts for nearly half of the entire Colares DO which, at its peak early last century laid claim to 1,500 hectares. Portuguese nineteenth century author Eça de Quieroz described Colares as 'the most French wine in Portugal'.Jo Locke MW, Portuguese buyer for the The Wine Society describes this in similarly international terms ‘recalling the savoury flavours of Italy and the sweeter strawberry notes and silky texture of Pinot Noir, with a touch of Nebbiolo-like tannin’. I can’t disagree with that but my own note reads as follows: mid-deep colour, pink with just a touch of brown on the rim; fragrant, gentle, fresh raspberry-like aromas with just a touch of savoury old wood; slightly attenuated, firm, a touch of characteristic Atlantic astringency, dusty tannins, raspberry fruit with sinewy tannic length, quite elegant. Probably the best Colares for 50 years!  16.5   

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Location: Tomba Lobos, Portalegre
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Herdade do Gamito 2007 Reserva. ****

This new blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Alicante Bouchet is produced on poor granite soils near Crato in the north of the Alentejo.  Despite the intense summer heat that this part of the Alentejo can experience, this wine has freshness and elegance.  Very deep and dak in colour (as you would expect with 30% Alicante); sweet black cherry fruit aromas with well integrated new oak; fresh juicy fruit on the palate, big but elegant with firm, fine grained tannins, plenty more to give.  An impresive debut.  17.5

Location: Sever, Marvão
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Quinta do Noval’s red wine project (in its present guise) began in 1996, three years after the estate was bought by AXA Millesimes. (Previous owner Cristiano Van Zeller was working on a joint venture with Domingos Soares Franco of José Maria da Fonseca at the end of the 1980s). It took eight years for Noval to release their first wine, the 2004 vintage, which I placed in poll position with 19 points in a tasting of rich reds for The World of Fine Wine magazine. This was followed by the 2005 which was equally well received.  Noval bypassed the 2006 vintage preferring to release the wine under a second label, Cedro do Noval. The successful 2007 harvest has spawned both wines along with a newcomer, the first 100 % Syrah from the Douro.   

 Quinta do Noval 2007, Douro DOC ****

 A blend of 50% Touriga Nacional with 40% Touriga Franca and 10% Tinto Cão aged for in French oak for 18 months. Very deep opaque colour; immediately attractive, fine, scented aromas, floral (Touriga Nacional), some Port-like berry fruit, intense, tight-knit with considerably more to give; ripe plum and berry fruit, round and fleshy, suave yet fresh with lovely purity of flavour, firm, fine-grained tannins, well integrated oak, solid backbone, lovely now but with much more to give (better after two days on ullage which is always a good sign). Very well balanced: the relatively high level of alcohol (14.5%) doesn’t show through. Combines elegance with richness and power. 18+

Cedro do Noval 2007, Vinho Regional Duriense  ***

 The second wine of Quinta do Noval named after the giant cedar tree that stands in front of the house. A blend of 30% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Franca, 30% Syrah (hence the 'Duriense' designation) and 10% Tinta Roriz, aged in French oak and bottled slightly earlier than the Quinta do Noval. Mid-deep youthful ruby; fresh and aromatic on the nose, slightly floral with a backdrop of well integrated oak; fresh, sappy, middle weight blackberry and cherry fruit with some savoury oak, very forthcoming, lovely now and over the next three to five years. 16.5  

Quinta do Noval, Labrador 2007, Vinho Regional Duriense (in bottle but not yet released). ***

 Made entirely from Syrah (not therefore entitled to Douro DOC) and named in honour of the dog belonging to wine maker António Agrellos: mid-deep youthful ruby; fragrant, light, peppery berry fruit character with more than a touch of smoky - savoury new oak; similarly spicy on the palate, fresh and well balanced, not especially intense, in fact somewhat stretched suggesting of young vines, elegant in style but rather short, tailing off on the finish leaving nothing but new wood. Well crafted but lacking in gravitas. One to watch for the future.  15

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