Meursault Les Rougeots 2004 (Coche-Dury) *****

Mid-straw in colour; lovely, taut minerally aromas, subdued smoky new oak with much more ti give on the nose; fine streak of acidity, very fresh, almost steely but with plenty of underlying richness, sublime length. Outstanding. Better still in 10 years. 19

Chateau Latour 1988 ****

Deep centre, purple rim, still youthful in appearance; very fine, open, ripe and scented: damsons, plums. Cedary and a ltouch of liquorice; rich, concentrated, firm, slightly green tannins, sweet plummy fruit, savoury, still fresh, elegant, long and linear. 18

Chateau Latour 1979 ** / ***

Still deep, surprisingly so; slightly damp  vegetal quality on the nose, lard and chip fat, drying out with a cedary character underlying; better on the palate, firm if dry fruit, still just about holding together, dry tannins, verging on lean but not unpleasnt to drink, some grce and elegance on the finish. Drink soon.  14.5

Chateau Margaux 1972

This is only the second time in my life that I have drunk first growth claret from the dismal 1972 vintage: pale colour, browing rim; hollow, slightly musty (but not corky), damp raspberries, weedy and growing thinner in the glass, just a vestige of fruit; very light and acidic, thin, dried out but still with a hint of past elegance. Short. Abrupt.  10

Clos Windsbuhl, Gewurtztaminer 2005 Vendage Tardive (Zind-Humbrecht) ****

 Pale; fresh yet restrained, very pure, apricots and crushed rose petals, still with much more to give; very fresh and zsety on the palate, lovely poise, spicy tropical flavours, well defined, great purity. Needs another 5 years plus.   18

Location: Dinner with Jonathan Owen, Dean Row, Wilmslow
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Corton Charlemagne 2004 (Bonneau de Martray) *****

Pale lemon in colour, youthful green tinge; restrained,  minerally, lemon butter and smoky oak evident, still needing time to integrate, quite taut, this wine never seems to age; lovely, taut minerally flavours, slightly more evolved on the palate than on the nose, fine acidity, quite steely but with a long, ripe finish, needs more time, at least another two years. 19

Chateau Pichon Lalande 1986 ****

Still mid-deep in colour with very little browning on the rim; fine, fragrant, showing some evolution on the nose, cedary, touch of resin, blackcurrant, slight soily undertone but fine and focuse; lovely lithe tannins on the palate, fine and firm, gentle and focused. Drink within the next 5 years. 17

Chateau Cheval Blanc 1988 ****

Mid-deep youthful colour; very fine, plummy, cedary fruit, opening up, delightful floral fragrance; firm, quite tight, (65% Cabernet Franc), some richness evident, still very fresh and quite sweet, quite plump with good depth and length. Very good but stops short of outstanding. 18   

Location: The Rookery, Ashford-in the-Water
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