Viña Ardanza, Bodegas La Rioja Alta, Reserva 1996  ****

Bodegas La Rioja Alta make some of the finest traditional Riojas that combine the elegance of Tempranillo fruit with age. Despite the many changes in the region since I first came to know it in the mid-1980s La Rioja Alta have built on and maintained their very individual house style without cutting any corners.  Mid-deep with a brick red / amber rim; lovely, scented fruit embellished by savoury - leather oak, an exquisite combination; soft, elegant sweet fruit, supple and  refined with great balance and poise, slightly dusty tannins, a touch of tobacco but not drying out. Very fine. 18

Location: The Rookery
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Another wine from my Christmas mixed case from the Wine Society:

Montevertine 2006  IGT ****

Originally a Vino di Tavola because the Chianti Classico consorzio said the vineyard we untypical despite being planted in the 1960s with Sangiovese. This wine is 90% Sangiovese with the remainder made up from Canaiolo and Colorino.  High altitude vineyard run by Martino Manetti. Mid-deep youthful colour; black fruit, touch of tar but not teriibly expressive, still quite closed with more to give; firm, fine, quite sinewy with tea leaf tannins and acidity, very elegant and Burgundian and more evolved on the palate than on the nose, fine length with a streak of acidity extending right the way through. Very much a food wine. 17

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